Microplastics are receiving increased attention from regulators worldwide due to their environmental impact. As a result, microplastic regulations in cosmetics are evolving quickly, with the European Union setting requirements that are shaping compliance expectations globally.
For cosmetic brands, understanding how microplastic regulations apply to raw materials, formulations, and product categories is essential. By addressing these regulations early, companies can reduce compliance risk, avoid costly reformulations, and protect long-term brand trust.
Key Takeaways
What Are Microplastic Regulations in Cosmetics?
Microplastic regulations in cosmetics aim to limit or eliminate the intentional use of synthetic polymer microparticles (SPMs) in cosmetic products due to their persistence in the environment.
SPMs, often referred to as microplastics, are used in cosmetics for exfoliation, texture enhancement, and film formation. Because these materials do not easily break down, regulators have raised concerns about environmental pollution and potential long-term health effects. These concerns have led to tighter controls on how and when microplastics may be used in cosmetic products.
Importantly, microplastic regulations in cosmetics do not rely on a single list of banned substances. Instead, each raw material must be evaluated individually to determine whether it meets the SPM definition.
What Brands Need to Know About SPM Classification
Although the SPM definition is clear, applying it in practice can be difficult. Some substances may qualify for exemptions, known as derogations, depending on how they are used. Key derogations include:
Certain materials are also considered outside the scope of current microplastic regulations in cosmetics, including:
Even with these exclusions, uncertainty remains around testing methods, biodegradability definitions, particle size measurement, and documentation requirements.
EU Regulatory Timeline for Microplastic Regulations in Cosmetics
The European Commission restriction on intentionally added microplastics took effect on October 17, 2023, with transition periods varying by product category.
| APPLICATION | # YEARS IN TRANSITION PERIOD | TRANSITION PERIOD END DATE |
| Microbeads used in any application | 0 | 16 October 2023 |
| Rinse-off cosmetic products | 4 | 16 October 2027 |
| Leave on cosmetic products (excluding lip, nail and make-up applications)Fragrance encapsulates used in any applicationMedical devices | 6 | 16 October 2029 |
| Make up, Lip and Nail leave-on cosmetic products | 12 | 16 October 2035 |
Between October 2031 and October 2035, certain products must include a label stating that they contain microplastics to remain on the market.
Business and Compliance Impacts
Reformulation and Cost Implications
Microplastic regulations in cosmetics may require brands to reformulate products that contain exfoliating beads, film formers, or texture-enhancing polymers. Reformulation can involve extensive R&D, supplier coordination, and additional testing.
Regulatory Complexity
Compliance requires collecting and reviewing detailed documentation related to particle size, biodegradability, and physical properties. Requirements may differ based on whether products are rinse-off, leave-on, or color cosmetics.
Consumer Perception Risks
Microplastic labeling requirements are not widely understood by consumers and may negatively affect brand perception, especially for products positioned as sustainable or environmentally responsible.
Best Practices for Managing Microplastic Regulations in Cosmetics
Brands navigating microplastic regulations in cosmetics should:
Expert Guidance from the Ithos Team
The regulatory team at Ithos Global helps brands manage microplastic regulations in cosmetics through structured screening, documentation management, and regulatory monitoring.
Ithos software supports the identification of synthetic polymer microparticles, evaluates applicable derogations, and securely stores supporting documentation within the Ithos Information Network (IIN). The team also works directly with suppliers and manufacturers to close data gaps, reduce compliance risk, and support inspection readiness as regulations continue to evolve.
Reference Links:
CE/EFfCI Guidance on the EU Microplastics Restriction:
https://cosmeticseurope.eu/files/3617/0792/4720/CE_EFfCI_Guidance_on_Annex_XVII_Restriction_of_SPM.pdf
Commission Regulation (EU) 2023/2055:
https://single-market-economy.ec.europa.eu/sectors/chemicals/reach/restrictions/commission-regulation-eu-20232055-restriction-microplastics-intentionally-added-products_en
